My Mother sometimes tells me, “Alex, you know you were born under a lucky star, right?” I do not like it when she says this for two reasons: 1) It is an inane saying; 2) I’m a grown-ass man, Mom. Lucky stars are for children. I can nearly grow a patchy beard, okay? There are elements of truth in that ridiculous saying (no offense, Mom) because I often hear this from her whenever the topic of my frequent trips to Europe arises. I’m incredibly lucky to have awesome friends across the pond, and I’m extremely fortunate to be able to visit them with some degree of regularity. I have friends in Switzerland, Germany and the Netherlands, and feel as though I have a home away from home in each of these countries. I don’t want to play favorites in case some of my German or Swiss friends read this, but I always base myself in the Netherlands. I do this for a myriad of reasons, not the least of which being I am a cyclist; and if you’re a cyclist, the Netherlands is a very, very good place to be. Let me put it this way: There are many more bicycles than people in the country. Facts like this make the small yet densely populated country the most bike-friendly place in which I’ve ever had the pleasure of turning a pedal.
The Netherlands, or, somewhat incorrectly referred to as “Holland”, is very famous for tulips, windmills, wooden shoes and permissive laws in regard to soft drugs and prostitution. Unfortunately, this woefully deficient list of attributes tends to pigeonhole the country in the minds of some. Here is a transcript from a typical conversation in which I tell someone I’m going to “Holland”.
So what are you up to this summer?
I’m actually going to be visiting a few friends in The Netherlands.
The Netherlands, huh? Very cool! Belgium and Spain are part of The Netherlands, right? Oh, and say ‘hi’ to Prince Will and Princess Kate for me while you’re there!
Actually, the Netherlands is a single country despite it sounding plural in English. It’s “Nederland” in Dutch, but most English speakers just call it Holland.
Ohhhh, okay. Holland – gotcha! Wait, isn’t Holland where Amsterdam is? And isn’t Meth legal and public fornication encouraged there?
Well, the country tends to have somewhat progressive views regarding marijuana and prostitution, but it is by no means a free for all. Marijuana is officially “tolerated”, and prostitution is legal within certain constraints.
Makes a smoking gesture with thumb and pointer finger and says, So THAT’S why you’re going there! **wink, wink, nudge, nudge**
Wrong.
That is a slightly exaggerated version of how those conversations go nearly 70% of the time. It’s rather annoying. These infamous activities take place in very specific corners of Amsterdam and are, uh, enjoyed predominately by tourists and not the Dutch themselves (no judgment here, by the way). The fact is, the Netherlands is home to wonderful people with wonderful culture – and riding a bike is a central aspect of this culture.
I’m certainly not suggesting that every 12-year-old Dutch boy and girl is sporting the latest Louis Garneau and bragging to their classmates about the deep section wheels they got for their birthday. You also don’t see (many) grandmothers in skin suits and aero helmets. Indeed, there are plenty of cyclists who do don spandex and have borderline erotic thoughts of FTP increases, but that is pretty much the M.O. for most of Europe. The people that live in the Netherlands are not necessarily “cyclists”, but rather just Dutch people – because to be Dutch means that using a bike to get where you’re going is deeply rooted within your DNA.
Translation: Drive slowly, schoolchildren riding bikes.
I won’t waste anyone’s time by listing the numerous environmental benefits to this way of life because they’re pretty obvious. Less obvious are the reasons this country is so conducive to such a lifestyle. Here are a few:
- The government supports cycling: The Dutch government invests massive amounts of money into cycling-related infrastructure. There are endless bike paths. Really, really nice ones. And the roads that are shared with motorists offer bike lanes that are nothing if not luxuriously roomy.
This bike path in the town of Petten is nearly the size of a motor vehicle road and runs along the Dutch coastline.
Bike parking is also made readily available at pretty much any destination. Beware of where you park your shiny new bike in Amsterdam, however. Bike thefts occur frequently, and leaving it unlocked near the closest canal is ill advised (I’ll touch again on this later).
Bikes properly parked and locked in a bike parking facility at the town of Schagen’s Train Station.
- It’s a small country with no mountains: The Netherlands is about as flat as a beer that’s been open for two days. It’s not difficult to put on your Sunday best, hop on the bike, and leisurely soft-pedal to your destination without having to worry about grinding up a mountain and arriving with pit stains and an incipient asthma attack. Additionally, journeys are rarely very long. The Netherlands is a small and condensed country. For the most part, everything one needs on a day-to-day basis is well within a maximum of a 25-minute bike ride. This is something I am spectacularly envious of since it takes me nearly that long to drive from my house to my university, gym, and many friends’ houses.
See any mountains?
- Riders get respect from motorists – who are probably fellow riders: As we’ve now established, the bike is the reigning king of transportation as far as the Dutch are concerned. Nearly all of the people there that I know take a car only when necessary. The animosity that so often plagues the motorist/cyclist relationship in the U.S. is virtually non-existent in the Netherlands. This respect for people on bikes probably arises from the fact that whoever is currently behind the wheel will, in all likelihood, be on a bike later that day.
It would stand to reason that with such great national emphasis on cycling, the Dutch would put an equal amount of emphasis on the ‘pimp factor’ of their bicycles and would all ride ultra posh rigs. This is not correct. The main two-wheeled vehicle of choice is a humble yet dependable workhorse – a simple cruiser with a name as understated as its looks. A main variety of this cruiser is affectionately referred to as omafiets. The translation means grandma bike. Dutch people are known for their frugality, but I believe there are more reasons for the ubiquity of the simple omafiets than financial prudence. As I said above, bike theft is a bit of an issue in the larger cities, so one is kind of “asking for it” if they roll around on an all carbon fiber, Gucci-edition bicycle. Additionally, the Kim Kardashian of cruisers won’t have the character that the somewhat beat up, old bikes have. Not unlike a classic car, these cruisers have seen some sh** and are all the more awesome because of it.
An omafiets can even take the abuse my friend Rob doles out on a skateboard ramp!
I cannot speak for everyone in the country, but the unpretentiousness of my Dutch friends’ cruisers mirror their overall attitude regarding life. Without digressing too much, success is not primarily measured monetarily for them. Having the largest and most expensive car is not a priority. Stuff that would normally stress me out does not bother them the way it would bother me. And although the amount of people I know in the Netherlands does not constitute a statistically significant sample of the population, they all have very admirable views on life. I know that plenty of factors contribute to this, but I feel that the cycling culture plays a role. Think about it – even light exercise yields health benefits and a clear head. Healthier, clearer-thinking individuals make for a happier society. I’ve spent quite a bit of time in the Netherlands, and I truly feel that this theory doesn’t just apply to my friends, but to a large portion of the country.
So what’s my point? Well, if you are one of our TrainerRoad subscribers that live in the Netherlands, gefeliciteerd! You live in a great country in which the roots of riding a bicycle run deep. If you live elsewhere, and are into cycling, visit the Netherlands if you can! Whether you’d like to rent an omafiets or ship/rent a racefiets, you’ll have a great time. And if the strong, Dutch headwinds don’t sufficiently humble you on a training ride, you can easily pop down to Switzerland for a jaunt up Verbier.
The Dutch bike culture has helped me perceive cycling differently – with a mind void of intense thoughts regarding functional thresholds, optimal cadences, and average heart rates. And while I will never cease to love cycling as a sport, I’ve learned to realize its potential in the context of an entire culture. As I sit in my car in traffic, feeling irritable, I think about the beautiful simplicity that a cycling-steeped culture can bring. Sometimes I wonder if I’m at all romanticizing this notion. The minute I swing my leg over a cruiser and ride off on an impeccable Dutch bike path, however, I know my conceptions are not far from reality.
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What do you think? This post is predominately comprised of my view of the country, peppered with a handful of supporting facts. Are you one of our TrainerRoad subscribers who live in the Netherlands? Are you someone who has visited? Let me know in the comments section if your experience of this country matches what I’ve said!
P.S. The first person to correctly explain in the comments section why “Holland” isn’t a completely correct way to refer to the entire country gets, um, some pretty cool bragging rights!
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North and South Holland are states like North and South Carolina. Am I first?
You are first, indeed. Well done, Ron! Now, brag to your friends ;).
Good read and being Dutch, I will leave the challenge of getting the bragging rights to someone else.
However, do not think this is Utopia for cyclists – the infrastructure is way better than it is in most countries, but the idea of “sharing the road”, especially outside the bicycle lanes, is not nearly as good as in countries surrounding us.
And if you are “cyclosportief” (meaning you cycle competitively and roughly twice as fast as the average commuter cyclist), you’re pretty much like a motor cyclist in car traffic and need to be “on your toes” all the time, or you’ll end up in the hospital.
And I live in the polder, where the wind is always blowing faster than anywhere else. But if you want some hilly terrain, you can go down south and enjoy a landscape that is similar to parts of Tuscany (really)…
Thanks for the comment, Robert! I totally agree that NL is not without it’s cycling-related problems, but so much of life if about relativity. I have never had the experience in NL of being chased off of the road by someone in a lifted truck and subsequently been engulfed in a cloud of unburned diesel fuel as the truck sped away as I have here. Stuff like that tends to happen on an all-too-regular basis where I live. Relative to the roads I frequent, the riding in NL is pretty hospitable :). No doubt that everyone will encounter an ill-tempered, reckless motorist every now and then no matter they live, but I’ve just gotten the impression that the culture in NL is more conducive to bike safety than where I live.
I absolutely see your point about the cyclosportiefs dealing with commuters and other obstacles. I actually keep a racefiets at the house of some family friends in Noord Holland so I’m able to maintain a bit of fitness while I’m there. I can attest to the fact that a cyclosportief needs to be much more aware of other cyclists when training there!
This blog was more about the predominating culture of everyday, non-sportief cycling. I’m quite used to the racing culture of cycling (we have a pretty decent sized community here in Reno, NV), but the notion of simply riding a bike everyday to get where you’re going is much more foreign to me. I suppose that was the impetus for this blog rather than the ins and outs of the racing community there. Maybe a bit ill-conceived considering my audience of TR subscribers (that includes many racers), but Nate and Reid told me to blog about my trip and make it vaguely cycling-related hehe ;).
Really? That sounds awesome! Where exactly? I always stay in Noord-Holland, but I’d be eager to do some riding in the South!
Well, actually I have (deliberately or not) been run of the road by cars/trucks/tractors. However, I see your point as to intended audience and it’s true that compared to other countries, we’re relatively “safe” here, albeit largely due to the infrastructure (separate bike lanes), rather than the mutual understanding that “we need to share the road” between fast and slow traffic.
You may find this short video on the subject interesting: http://www.robertrijnders.nl/2012/11/bicycledutch/#EN
As to the more hilly parts – you need to go down south, to Zuid Limburg (which is not the same as Noord Limburg, which is basically as flat as the rest of the country). It’s home to the Amstel Gold Race and the World Championships. You will find the Cauberg, Keutenberg, Fromberg, Eyserbosweg and many more well known climbs there.
If you’re ever around and up for it, give me a buzz and I’ll give you a nice route or even ride with you, showing the best panoramic spots.
To give you an impression, have a look at some panoramice pictures here: https://plus.google.com/u/0/105633821568684167616/posts
Really good stuff, Robert! Very informative video. It’s great to get a Dutch cyclist’s opinion on all of this. None of my friends there ride competitively, so I think you have a unique perspective.
Ok, Zuid Limburg. Duly noted! That would be great to get the best routes or even go on a ride with you! I’ll contact you via FB or Twitter next time I’m there :). Thanks for the offer.
You weren’t kidding when you said Tuscany! Really, really pretty area. I’m ashamed I’ve not yet been down that way, but now I know!
Thanks again for the input!
Holland is the name of a “provincie”, a part of the country. It is often used to identify the netherlands, whose inhabitants are commonly called “hollanders” by their flemish neighbours in Belgium. So bring on those bragging rights, wrap ’em up nicely and fedex them to Flanders, a region that is home to some of cycling’s most beautiful classics and certainly deserves a visit if you’re in the neighbourhood.
Ha! Well done.
I’ve been through Belgium several times, but I’ve always felt like I haven’t given that country its due attention. Once I graduate from University, I’d love to go watch one of the Classics there!
‘Holland’ is the county that Amsterdam and a few other major cities are in. I travel there frequently from the UK and find the bike culture amazing. I had the pleasure to race the European Duathlon champs there in April 2013.
Indeed it is amazing! I’ve not once seen a Jeremy Clarkson equivalent lobbying to keep cyclists of the road there ;).
What a great experience to race the Euro Duathlon Champs there! Very cool, Chris.
First off, I live in Holland, so this is an easy one for me, but these guys explain it way more entertaining: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eE_IUPInEuc
I love that you love our country, I kind of take it all for granted I guess. I just commuted to work, 10 minutes on my beat up old omafiets, probably 7 or 8 minutes on my carbon race monster, but that’s also an excellent way to kill yourself or drive someone of the bicycle path (and I would have to take a shower, thereby losing the gained minutes again) 🙂
Anyway, that’s kind of normal in the bigger cities and the densely populated Holland, but there are areas where cars are still needed for day to day things. Also we do have some small mountains, you should get out of Holland sometime! 😉
Hooray for geography and a brief history of Dutch Imperialism! Mooie video, Jorick 🙂
Yeah, I certainly don’t want to give people the impression that the Dutch don’t use cars at all! It’s just MUCH more common to ride a bike in NL than it is here in Reno, NV. One of my friends who lives in Petten (very small beach town) always goes by car to Schagen (north of Alkmaar) to get groceries and other sorts of shopping, but again, things tend to be more accessible by bike than where I live :).
I’ve not really seen any of the small mountains, but I’ve experienced some pretty unfriendly kickers riding through the duinen in the town of Callantsoog (north of Schagen). Where are the mountains you are talking about?
You find them in the south. Zuid Limburg, check out the route of the Amstel Gold Race spring classic, it has most of the well known hills. They’re all very short but steep (max 18% I believe). We call the kuitenbijters – calfstingers.
Holland is just one region of The Netherlands. Our school geography lessons covered Eurpoe prety well. I could name most of US states, I think, too.
If you want to know a bit more about the difference between Holland and the Netherlands you should spend 4 minutes watching this video on youtube 🙂
In a nutshell Holland consist of two provinces (North and South Holland) within the Netherlands.
That is a great video, Elmer! Informative AND entertaining. Thanks for the post!
Holland, or rather North and South Hollands, comprises two of the twelve provinces of the Netherlands – allbeit the most populous ones. Not to be confused with the Country or Kingdom of the Netherlands, one of the islands of which I was lucky enough to live in for a wee while, although unluckily so small I can remember almost nothing apart from the colour of the roofs !
After that it gets a bit complicated…
Sorry, guys! I was unaware I had to approve comments before they get posted! I’ll see if I can change that.
Anyway, thanks for reading and commenting, and nice job with the Noord/Zuid Holland and 12 provincies explanations! Goed gedaan, allemaal :).
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